The JigMaker - Circular Saw Sled

This page sets out how to set up and use your Circular Saw Sled. Although the instructions and videos are based on Version 1 of the Sled, they equally apply to Version 2.

Set Up & Use

Safety First

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SAFETY FIRST - Please ensure you use appropriate safety gear, such as goggles, mask and ear protection, for the use of your circular saw. Please refer to the manufacturer’s documents for your particular saw and follow safety guidelines that apply for your tool. Also, keep your fingers, and anything else you don’t want cut, well clear off the blade.

Ensure the Circular Saw Sled is placed on a firm flat surface when in use.

Ensure the area in front of the sled is clear (especially people) in case of "kick back" (something that occurs when the blade catches a piece of material and throws it out).

Although the product is quite robust, please take care when unpacking and handling.


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SETTING UP THE RUNNERS - The right hand side is flexible to accommodate different base sizes for your circular saw. The right hand blocks can be moved and fixed by loosening and tightening the wingnuts.

  1. Raise the Blade to ensure it does not drag on the board.
  2. Carefully set you saw on the centre of the left hand runner and move the right hand runner so that the base rests comfortably on the runners. Adjust the runners until the base easily slides without catching on the runners. When you are satisfied with the fit, tighten the wingnuts.
  3. Place a straight piece of timber up against the top left hand block/fence and ensure that the right hand block/fence is properly aligned and adjust if necessary. Recheck the movement of the saw.

NOTE: You may need to lift the blade guard when pulling the saw backward. If you find that the blade guard drags (forward and backwards), you may need to fix the guard up off the board, for example, with a clamp. Take extra care in this regard.


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SETTING THE BLADE HEIGHT: - For Ver 2.0 and below.

  1. A 4.7mm spacer is provided. Place this spacer in the channel near the centre of the board.
  2. Place your saw on the runners with the blade directly over the spacer.
  3. Lower you blade onto the spacer – so it actually sits on the spacer.
  4. Lock the blade into position.
  5. Remove the saw off the spacer and remove the spacer.

NOTE: The cut depth is 44 mm as the blocks are 45mm.


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SETTING THE BLADE: - For Ver 2.1 and above.

  1. In Version 2.1, a sacrificial centre piece has been added. This piece is held in place with double sided tape at the top and bottom so can be easily removed and replaced when necessary.
  2. The centre piece was added to make it easier to mark the position of the blade and to allow material to rest on a flat platform.
  3. Place your saw on the runners.
  4. Lower you blade onto the centre piece.
  5. Lock the blade into position.
  6. Then run your saw along the piece.
  7. This marks the position of your blade.

NOTE: The cut depth is 44 mm as the blocks are 45mm.


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  1. In this video I'm going to show you how I go about setting up my angle for cutting mitres. In this case, I'll be setting up for cutting 45 degree mitres but the same approach can be applied to other angles.
  2. I start off by cutting 2 lengths from a 45mm x 35mm piece of scrap timber but most any piece will do. I suggest you make these lengths reasonably long to make this job easy. I've set my stop block so that the 2 lengths are the same size but that's up to you. As an aside, I allow the blade to come to a stop after each cut. This is so that it doesn't bind and get caught with the material.
  3. Next, I use a square and a block againt the left runner so that I can set the angle at 90 degrees to the runner. I pencil mark the 90 degree position on the board.
  4. Now, I rotate the angle so that the 45 degree mark on the protractor lines up with the pencil mark on the board and then lock the angle in place.
  5. Next, I line up the top edge of each block with the blade line and make a cut.
  6. When I placed these 2 blocks together against my square, there was a gap. To fix this, I adjusted my angle back a fraction then lined up the blocks with my blade line again and shaved a fraction off.
  7. This time the mitre was a lot tighter and I was satisfied with this. Now, don't throw out the block as it will make the perfect jig for setting this angle in the future without having to go through all these steps. You just line up the end of the block against the blade and the edge against your angle and you're done.

For greater flexibility, there are several places to position the aluminium angle.

NOTE: It is recommended that you do test cuts to ensure your mitre is to your satisfaction. Refine as required.

Cutting Box Mitres - Part One

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Cutting Box Mitres - Part One:

The other day I was asked if it was possible to cut box mitres with this jig. This is easy

I set my saw to 45 degrees. As you can see in the video, this lifts the blade above the board.

So, to cut the mitre, I elevated my piece of work up to the blade. I also securely clamped the saw guard out of the way. Pretty cool really.

Cutting Box Mitres - Part Two

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Cutting Box Mitres - Part Two:

Where do I Line up my material to cut the mitres????

To make a box, you have to line up the edge of your material all in the same place; otherwise it wont be a box.

The easiest way to do this is as follows:

  1. Move your stop block up the right hand fence.
  2. Span your supporting timber across the ditch and against the stop block.
  3. Set your saw to cut at the desired angle.
  4. Run your saw across the timber to mark the cut line:
    • The left hand side of the cut is the BOTTOM of the miter.
    • Use the calculater below to work out the distance from the bottom of the mitre to the TOP of the mitre and mark this position. This will be where you line up your material for cutting.
    • In the case of 45 degree mitres, that distance will always be the WIDTH of your material.

mitre angle diagram
Calculate The Distance Across Mitre