The JigMaker - Circular Saw Sled - Kitset (Patent Pending)

The Circular Saw Sled is available in kitset form. The main difference between the Standard version and the kitset is that the kitset is not painted. This leave you with the opportunity to let your (or your kids') creative side shine through and personalise the board with your own designs and paint job.

If you do not want to do anything at all, that is up to you. However, it is recommended that, at the very least, 2 or 3 layers of paste wax is applied to protect the surfaces and make it smoother to run materials over the board.

Assembly Instructions

View Assembly Instructions In WritingOpen to view written instructions

Parts List and Tools Required

  • The board – 18mm x 800mm x 600mm
  • 2 short blocks
  • 2 long blocks (1 shorter than the other)
  • 1 very short block (for the stop block)
  • 1 protractor
  • 4 knobs
  • 1 threaded knob
  • 1 20mm spacer (looks pipe like)
  • 4 small washers
  • 12 penny washers
  • 4 x 25mm gutter bolts (these have screw heads)
  • 3 x 40mm gutter bolts (these have screw heads)
  • 1 x 40mm bolt (hex head)
  • 3 x 60mm bolts (hex heads)
  • 2 long aluminium angles
  • 1 short aluminium angle
  • 1 screwdriver (either flat head or phillips will do)
Circular Saw Sled ver 2.0 parts list



The board is partly preassembled with tracks on the right side and 9 fastenings on the left side. The top right of the board has 2 tracks and the bottom right has 1 track.

Step 1:

Start with the shorter long block. This block is screwed to the board at the top left of the board. Line up the holes on the board with the inserts on the bottom of the block. The insert on the top of the block should point towards the centre of the board. Use 2 40mm gutter bolts to attach this block.

Step 2:

In the same way, attach the short block (with the inserts) to the bottom left side of the board. However, don’t tighten the block just yet – we’ll come back to tightening it up later.

Step 3:

Push 2 60mm bolts through the holes in the long block leaving enough of the bolt to allow the heads to slide into the top track. Once in the track, push the block downward so it sits flat on the board. Fix each bolt with a penny washer and a knob. Set the block up against the edge of the channel in the board.

Step 4:

Do the same for the remaining short block fixing it to the bottom track. Set the block up against the edge of the channel in the board.

Step 5:

Time to fix the runners to the blocks. Place the runners on their respective blocks. You’ll need 1 25mm gutter bolt and 2 penny washers for each end. The penny washers go under the runners so as to raise them up and the gutter bolts just screw in from the top. Loosely set everything up before tightening the bolts down.

Step 6:

Now that the runners are fixed, go back to the left side short block and tighten the bolt from underneath the board.

Step 7:

In the same way as for the other right side blocks, push a 40mm bolt through the stop block and insert into the second runner at the top of the board. Fix the block with a penny washer and knob.

Step 8:

The final step is to attach the mitre angle. The easiest way is to slide each piece onto the threaded knob in this order: penny washer, 20mm spacer, small washer, protractor and finally the angle. Invert the lot and screw into one of the fixings on the board.

That's It!!

You should now go to the HowTo page on the website for the Circular Saw Sled and follow the instructions for setting up the Sled for your particular saw.